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Day 4 - To Cangas de Onís
In spite of our intentions to ascend the cable car the weather had really clamped down and it was raining, the only consolation was that it was much worse in the UK. There was also fresh snow on the peaks.
After a leisurely breakfast and having the advantage of being able to pack the luggage in the bike in the dry of the underground car park we set off at about 11:00. We exchanged addresses with Jack and Ian and set off back to Potes which was the only source of fuel for a few miles. Just as we were leaving the rain stopped and though I wouldn't exactly say the sun shone it brightened up a bit. The road to Potes is a good wide, well surfaced road with lots of big sweeping bends.
Day 4
"I get the impression the bike is leaning over a bit more." says the boss.
"No, definitely not." says I.
OK, so I don't always tell the truth but having been frustrated with narrow roads, poor surfaces, and blind corners it was good to let off some steam and let the bike do what it is designed to do. I certainly was no where near exploring the limits of my new Avon Azarro III tyres.
Stopped to shop in Potes and then got some fuel at 11:38 at the one and only very small petrol station with a couple of amusing characters serving [N43.15575 W4.61972]
We then found the road south which is the N621, but so is the road to Fuente Dé and so is the road north to Panes. So let's get this straight...there are three roads out of Potes called the N 621.....two would be understandable but THREE!!! Anyway thanks to the GPS we zoomed off up what appeared to be a side street and found ourselves heading south towards Boca de Huergano.
Interesting stretch of the N 261
This should have been the most picturesque part of the whole trip ascending to 5,278 feet, only someone forgot to tell the Met office. As the road climbed, 179º hairpin bends were every 1/4 mile. Susie looked up and saw just where the road was going and uttered a very un-ladylike expression and, had it not been for the gradient, would have offered to get off and walk. It was probably just as well there was no view due to the cloud as she would have missed it owing to the fact she had her eyes tightly closed most of the way. I don't think I got out of first gear. We stopped at 12:19 at the viewing point [N43.07688 W4.73301].
What should have been the best view of the week
I suppose the other advantage was that you couldn't see the bottom of the drop the other side of the Armco barrier.
We started the descent the other side. Downhill hairpins. Even riding solo on the Sprint I find that my wrists get tired in this situation. Unfortunately Susie broke her arm near her wrist five months ago and she has still not regained full strength in it so was unable to stop herself sliding forward under downhill braking. I had to concentrate very hard to ensure smooth engine braking so as not to have Susie trying to occupy the driving seat. This also put quite a strain on her back as she tried hard not to inflict her weight on me.
We stopped at 13:14 [N42.97250 W4.99750] just before Riano with the view over the Embalse de Riano and could see the rain starting to move in.
Riano and the rain approaching
We were about to get wet
As we got going again the rain reached us. I asked Susie if she was OK. She replied she was not at all bothered by the rain. Then someone started throwing buckets of water over us! Even though I had a short sleeved T-shirt on under my unlined suit and my arms were cold and wet, the heat from my heated waistcoat kept me comfortable which proved the theory that as long as your core is warm you will be fine. The heated grips were on full combating the inadequacy of my lightweight summer gloves. In fact we only got a bit chilly when we stopped and disconnected from the bike. Whilst we on the move and 'powered up' life was bearable. As I said at the beginning "Bringing the heated gear was the best decision I made".
As we approached the bridge shown above I gave Susie the option of taking the original route which involved taking the C 635 in a big sweep around to the west or the more direct route up the N 625. She chose the latter - hardly surprising.
We stopped for lunch at 14:16 at a roadside cafe [N43.18638 W5.07740] and had an interesting meal as we were stuck with the translation so we started with liver and cheese soup, then went on to white beans and an indeterminate meat and then mutton and soggy chips. It was hot and it was filling.
Stopped for lunch
We donned our soggy jackets at 15:50 and continued downhill. A group of about nine UK riders who we had seen going up the mountain whilst we were having lunch then appeared in my mirrors coming back down. I slowed so they could pass me safely. We then passed them again when they were stopped for a cigarette break in a lay-by.
We arrived at the Parador de Cangas de Onís (5-star) at 16:18 [N43.36681 W5.15103]. After a brief bit of confusion where they quickly rectified my booking (I had asked for a superior room by fax and they had given me a standard) we unpacked the bike and hung all our gear up to dry in the room.
This is a very comfortable hotel and is another historic building being the site of an Abbey of the black monk order of St Benedict dating from the 12th Century. Parts of it possibly associated with the Court of Cangas and the early beginnings of the Asturian kingdom dating from the 8th Century . Parts of the excavations found when renovating the ruins to create the Parador are well presented with English texts offering an explanation.
And this is just the corridor
The bell tower of the abbey
The food was excellent (2nd best we experienced) and the waiting staff extremely friendly and helpful.
There was no secure parking for bikes but I parked close to the foyer and I don't think they have a security problem there - there were a lot more attractive vehicles than mine in the car park including a Mini Cooper S in mint condition!
Distance travelled this day 89 miles.
Index | Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Day 6 | References