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Read the disclaimerOK "brakes" - dead easy, no problem. Yeah, right!. You will definitely need:
You will possibly need:
Brakes are pretty critical on a bike and getting it wrong could have fatal consequences - if you are not sure, get a professional to do it then you have somebody else to blame if/when it goes wrong. Read the disclaimer again. Well, front brakes seem quite easy anyway. Access is easy. A 5mm hex drive removes the pad retaining pins and out pops the anti-rattle spring. Out come the pads. Take them out one at a time so that if they are well within the wear limit you can pop them back in the same place from whence they came. If they have passed or are close to the wear limit then replace. Wire-wool the pad retaining pins to remove the corrosion. A mere smear of "Copper Ease" on the backs of the pads. Replace the pads. Replace the anti-rattle spring. A coating of "Copper Ease" on the pad retaining pins. Torque up to 20Nm and "Bob's your uncle" you're done. Couldn't be easier. Now we come to the rear pads. Rear wheels seem to collect a lot more crud than the front ones and the same can be said for the rear brake calliper. Corrosion is a feature! The service manual says to loosen the 2 pad retaining pins first. You might as well know that really you ought to remove the rear wheel first as, when you come to step 2 in the service manual, space is very limited with it in place.......Plus, if somebody has been in there before you and rounded off the internal hex on the pad retaining pins then you have a real problem! So, rear wheel off and as you are still unable to undo the pad retaining pins you execute step 2 in the manual. Undo the calliper bolts. You will probably need a ring spanner for the front bolt as it is unlikely (maybe not impossible with a small 3/8" drive) you will get a socket drive on it. Then try to undo the rounded off, corroded 5mm hex pad retaining pins. If you succeed, no problem, just remove the old pads and check for wear as before. There is no difficulty in deciding which way to put them back if they are within the wear limit as they will only go back one way. If too worn, replace. Following the same advice re use of "Copper Ease" as for front brakes, re-assemble. 40Nm for the caliper bolts always supposing you can get a torque wrench on the front bolt and 20Nm for the pad retaining pins. No luck removing the pad retaining pins. OK, go to the next step. Remove the banjo bolt which connects the brake hose to the calliper. You might find it easier to do this once you have re-attached the calliper bolts, since it requires a bit of force! You may be surprised to know that on this entirely Metric-fitted bike that the banjo boIts (on the '99 model at least) are Imperial AF and require a 9/16" AF socket (the only non-compatible Metric/Imperial size). A six-point socket is essential as the banjo bolts have rounded corners!!! Drain the brake fluid which leaks off into a suitable container and discard. Position the calliper on a piece of soft wood and by all means try an impact driver but don't surprised if this doesn't work since by this time, in your frustration, your really will have rounded off the internal hex. After a bit of judicious use of WD 40 just drive a 5.5mm hex (or better still, so I am told, an oversized TorX bit) into the hole and try again. If this doesn't work you're on your own because it did for me but I did get to the point I was considering drilling out the pins and/or replacing the calliper. Purchase two new pad retaining pins (don't even think about re-using the old ones - it's your life you are talking about) - they are not expensive. Also purchase new banjo washers (they are a once-only item). Reassemble as before. The torque for the banjo bolt is 25Nm. Refill the master cylinder with new DOT 4 brake fluid and bleed the system as per the manual. If you want to ride your bike you will need to refit the rear wheel and (preferably) the exhaust. Personal note It seems to me that, in view of the likelihood of corrosion on the rear brake calliper that it would be prudent to remove, wire-wool, and re-smear the pad retaining pins with "Copper Ease" periodically*. This is not part of the service routine, but both my front and rear pad retaining pins had significant corrosion and this will impede the progress of the pads along the pins as it is a "moving part". What sort of period? If you only ride in summer, in the dry, then maybe an annual check will be sufficient otherwise IMHO (not Triumph verified) a 3,000 mile check would seem sensible. * the suggestion from another user was to use PJ1 (blue) chain lube on the pad retaining pins as it doesn't wash off in the rain.
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